In a cosmetic clinic in south Manchester, 29-year-old Abby Warnes lies on a padded chair as a cannula penetrates her cheek. She winces, not from trout sperm exactly, but from injections of polynucleotides—tiny fragments of DNA extracted from salmon or trout sperm.
The treatment aims to stimulate the skin to produce more collagen and elastin, promoting rejuvenation and potentially improving acne scars and redness. “I just want to target those problem areas,” Abby explains.
Polynucleotides have rapidly grown in popularity, touted by celebrities such as Charli XCX, who described them as “kinda like deep vitamins”, and reportedly embraced by Kim and Khloe Kardashian. Jennifer Aniston even joked on Jimmy Kimmel Live: “Don’t I have beautiful salmon skin?”
Described by one industry figure as a “Benjamin Button moment”, the injectable treatment is praised for its regenerative promise. Clinical trials suggest improvements in skin texture, hydration and scarring—though outcomes vary. Abby reports reduced dark circles under her eyes after previous sessions.
But the procedure comes at a high cost: £200 to £500 per treatment, with three initial sessions recommended and maintenance injections every six to nine months.
Not everyone sees success. New York bride-to-be Charlotte Bickley described her experience as “salmon-gate”. Hoping to achieve a “wedding glow”, she ended up with infection, inflammation and worsened under-eye darkness. Ten months later, she still bears scarring.
Experts warn the excitement may be outpacing the science. Consultant dermatologist Dr John Pagliaro questions whether injecting fragmented fish DNA truly matches the benefits of our own nucleotides. “We do not have good, strong data,” he says, calling for larger long-term studies.
While polynucleotides are registered as medical devices in the UK, they are not regulated as medicines and have not been approved by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA).
Ashton Collins from Save Face says treatment is generally safe when conducted by medically trained professionals using reputable products. However, untested products are increasingly entering the market.
Dr Sophie Shotter, president of the British College of Aesthetic Medicine, offers the treatment but warns it is not a universal solution: “Polynucleotides are not the panacea. There are plenty of treatments with more research behind them.”
As demand rises, so do the questions. For some, the “salmon skin” effect may be real. For others, the results are costly, painful—and permanent.
